Unless you always park in level areas, eventually you will need to level your motorhome when you camp. Sleeping is more comfortable, cooking is easier, and doors will work properly when your coach is reasonably level. Leveling may also prolong the life of your refrigerator.
With motorhomes, leveling is usually a simple exercise. Most Class A and larger Class C coaches have powered leveling jacks, usually hydraulic. If these are part of an automatic leveling system, getting level can be as simple as pushing a button. In other cases, the process is made easier by installing a level indicator within view of the driver’s seat.
Start by parking on a level surface. Use a good bubble or bulls-eye level on the floor or on a counter to check that the interior is level, front-to-back and side-to-side. If necessary, use stabilizer jacks or other means to get the coach as level as you can. Now attach a bubble or bulls-eye level permanently to your dash, console or elsewhere near the cockpit.
Inexpensive bubble level indicators with adhesive backing are available at most camping stores. While you’re there, pick up a set or two of interlocking leveling blocks. Or obtain some wood planks, preferably pressure treated, and cut them into various lengths for easy stacking. In many state parks or forest campgrounds, campsites are often not very level. You may need some blocks to raise one or more wheels by up to several inches.
Use plastic blocks to level a motorhome. With the permanent level indicator installed, parking on the level almost anywhere is relatively easy. Drive slowly to the parking site, observing your level indicator. Try moving the coach back and forward or turn one way or the other to get the bubble close to the center. If you’re still out of level, it’s time to stop for a minute and survey the site. If you just have one high wheel, it might be easy to scoop out a couple of inches of dirt or gravel and pull the rig into the depression. Likewise, with one or two low wheels, use your plastic or wood leveling blocks to build ramped stacks that you can drive onto. You may need to add or remove a block to fine-tune. This process will become second nature over time as you learn to calibrate your level indicator. Remember that your tire treads should not hang over the side of the blocks and if you have dual wheels, both wheels of a pair should be supported equally.
When you’re close, set your parking brake and optionally place wheel chocks to prevent accidental rolling. If you have stabilizer jacks, lower them now to firm up your coach and nudge it closer to level. You might need a couple of blocks under the jack if it is too far from the ground. Don’t use stabilizers for primary leveling. They aren’t built for the weight, and you may stress your frame.
Enjoy your stay “on the level” and don’t forget to fill in that scooped-out hole as you leave.